A culinary travel through L’Ecusson, Montpellier’s historic centre

MontpellierMontpellier is one of the largest cities of the French Mediterranean coast and offers to locals and tourists plenty of cultural sights, a busy night-life and of course a large choice of nice restaurants.

I will invite you to join me for a culinary travel in the narrow streets and beautiful squares of the center.

From the Comédie, take the Rue de la Loge, turn left to Grand’Rue Jean Moulin and right at the Commerce Chamber to discover the Saint-Roch district. At the Saint-Côme square,l’Andromaque (address: 3 Place Saint-Côme, price range: €16–€80 per person) is waiting for you with its fish delivered fresh every day, and it offers an abundance of seafood platters and special parrillada. Then, stop by the church of Saint-Roch to have a look at its mural fresco. If you would like to have a very nice meal for very cheap, you must go to La tomate (address: 6 Rue Four des Flammes, price range: a three-course meal starting from €12.90 per person) and to taste a selection of tapas with a glass of wine, le Bon Marché (address: Rue Saint-Paul) is highly recommended. Go up the Rue Saint-Paul and turn left at the Rue de l’Ancien Courrier to arrive at the Rue Saint-Guilhem, where you will discover nice shops selling wine, champagne and other regional products, as well as biscuits and chocolate.

Going up the Rue Saint-Guilhem, the road will lead you to the Place Castellane, where you can also buy regional products at the Halle and taste them afterwards, while resting at a café nearby, with a glass of wine.

Turn left at the Rue Foch and its luxurious boutiques, where you can do some window-shopping and stop by the Divine et Sens (address: 2 Impasse Perier, price range: €15–€50 per person). There, you can eat sitting under nice vaultings, and your meal will be prepared by Roland Mercier, a Michelin-starred Chef.

Now you can see the triumphal arch and discover the Canourgue district. Turn right at the Rue Pelleterie before the law court. Le Petit Jardin (address: 20 Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, price range: €30 per person), named after its nice little garden in the heart of the city, has a “hidden” entrance in a narrow street connecting the Saint-Pierre Cathedral and the Canourgue square. Then, you can come back to the Canourgue square to follow the Rue du Palais des Guilhem and arrive at the Chabaneau Square.

Next, we are going to the other side of the Prefecture, to enter the Jacques Coeur district. At Le Tamarillos (address: 2 Place du Marché aux Fleurs, price range: €20–€38 per person), Philippe Chapon, twice French Champion of Desserts, proposes a modern cuisine around the flowers theme. Next, take the Rue Delpech and turn right at the Rue de la Carbonnerie to arrive at the Rue de l’Aiguillerie. You now have two alternatives.

The first option would be to go down the street until you reach the Place Notre Dame and stop by le Micocoule (price range: €9–€20 per person), which proposes a very refreshing menu. Walking a bit further, you will see the Place de la Chapelle Neuve and find the Duo as well as Le Grillardin (address: 3 Place de la Chapelle Neuve, price range: €25–€50 per person), which is a very nice restaurant, but do not forget to book in advance!

The second option is to go up the Rue de l’Aiguillerie. On your right you will discover the Place Pétrarque with the restaurant La Diligence (address: 2 Place de la Pétrarque, price range: €38–€65 per person) and its eleventh–thirteenth century atmosphere. At 27 Rue de l’Aiguillerie, la Maison de la Lozère (price range: €30–€60 per person for lunch, €80–€120 per person for dinner) is a gastronomic restaurant founded by Eric Cellier and Pierre Morel 20 years ago. If you are interested to taste the Aligot (mashed potatoes with cheese), you will have to reserve your table well in advance!

From the Pétraque square, take the Rue Embouque d’Or and turn left to the Rue Valedeau. There, you will see a huge palm tree and the salon-de-thé le Koeur. Say hello from me to Michel and don’t forget to check the Escargot Holiday website to find a hotel in Montpellier!

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One Response to A culinary travel through L’Ecusson, Montpellier’s historic centre

  1. Alex says:

    You’ve put together a fantastic post here! Montpellier is a beautiful city and there’s so much to see and explore.

    Best wishes, Alex.